CVO Garage
August 20, 2018, 03:37:14 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: The Garage is accepting donations for upkeep and maintenance.  Click the Donations Menu Tab to help!
 
   Home   Help Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Holy crap an actual bike thread  (Read 11887 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
J-Carr
AKA: Oscar Diggs
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Auburn, Pennsyltucky
Posts: 8917


That's what she said




My Ride 1:2008 FLHTCUSE3 Canyon Copper & Stardust Silver with SEAC, SSERT, and Fulsac 1.75" Slip Ons.  "Screamin' Nemo"

My Ride 2:1966 Road Queen Dori all original parts with some removed for better performance. "Screamin' Malinda"
« on: August 12, 2015, 12:42:56 PM »

I'm about at 80% that I'm keeping Nemo at least for a few more years. For those that don't know me that's an '08 CUSE3 with a stock 110 with 90,000 miles.  This concerns me a bit.  That's a bunch of miles and although I've maintained it well, I'm worried about reliability on a 2000 mile trip.

I'm planning on doing three things if I decide for sure to keep it:

1. Send the fricken POS radio to Iron Cross and get it up to snuff and add the rear aux jack.  I need info on how their Bluetooth audio add in will affect my Bluetooth HD phone integration and then I'll decide if I want to add that or not.
2. Refresh the bearing/races/bushings.  At 90k its still got all the original squishy, swishy and rolly stuff to let the wheels on the bus go round and round and swingarm to flex and the handlebars to turn, etc.  Is it worth it to have all that replaced?
3. Refresh the engine.  This is the biggy obviously.  I think my bottom end is good but I'd like the pistons looked at a compression / bleed down test done and the crank run out measured.  I think the upper end is getting worn out again like it was at 40k.  The did cams, lifters, and tensioners back then.  I'd like to make it right this time.  I hear told of better springs and cam profiles which are less harsh and more reliable with still giving a bit better torque.  I am NOT a horsepower whore.  I don't care what the dyno says about my bike.  I cruise at 75-80 on the interstates and ride a lot of coal country twisties.  I'm almost never in an area where I can open the bike up beyond that and smokey burnouts lost their appeal about the same time Viagra became a product I read up on!  Hysterical Laughing

So... Recommendations, costs, what's worth doing and what should I wait for it to grenade?  If any of the engine vendors are withing a 100 miles of Wilkes-Barre and want to make a private suggestion on what your secret sauce is I promise to keep it secret until I buy it.  I need to get a budget together to help me make my final determination.  If you've got a shop or can recommend one within that 100 mile radius (approx, I'm flexible) than I'd be willing to give you the business over a local shop in my area if your a vendor on our little playground here.

The fact is I love this bike.  And the MoCo has nothing that has even remotely interested me until now that they've got the new Road Glide Ultra coming without spending CVO money.  I might go that route when I see the final product, but if it costs me CVO money to get it where I want it, then I might as well just spend some more on this bike and get another 5 years out of it.  Other than wet heads and the heat lowering exhaust path I have everything the new ones do anyway.  It's just not all built in and factory.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2015, 12:45:50 PM by J-Carr » Logged

Please stop the planet.  I would like to get off.
hogasm
Service Advisor
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Kitty Hawk NC
Posts: 1604


If we can't ride...then let's go fishing


WWW

My Ride 1:04 SEEG STOCK!!!

My Ride 2:02 FLHTC slightly modified
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2015, 02:00:18 PM »

Wreck it and spend the Ins monies on a Victory, they are far superior mechanical wise over a Harley

Pull a Chipper move and have it stolen and spend the Ins monies on a Victory, they are far superior mechanical wise over a Harley

Loose it in a fire and spend the Ins monies on a Victory, they are far superior mechanical wise over a Harley

Did I mention that a Victory is a far superior mechanical wise than a Harley
Logged

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
---------------------------------------------------
WWW.K9CARRIAGE.COM
Dead_Reckoning
Service Advisor
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Floating On Casco Bay
Posts: 2305


03 SERK




My Ride 1:03 SERK
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2015, 02:49:00 PM »

Did I mention that a Victory is a far superior mechanical wise than a Harley

 Express IF you can stand looking at the George Jetson Look and a bike that has a rear end like a Duck's Arse.
Polaris can keep their stuff for those who really want one.


« Last Edit: August 12, 2015, 03:46:44 PM by Dead_Reckoning » Logged

Government is best which governs least.
 "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money to spend"
iski
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 16205


Hold your ears folks, it's show time.




My Ride 1:2002 FLHRCI Road King Classic - Vivid Black - Traded

My Ride 2:2007 FLHTCUSE2 Screamin' Eagle Ultra - Light Candy Cherry and Black Ice - Traded

My Ride 3:2010 FLHTCUSE5 Screamin' Eagle Ultra - Crimson Mist Black/Dark Slate - Traded

My Ride 4:2017 FLHTKSE CVO Limited - Black Garnet & Electric Red Pearl w/Carbon Dust
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2015, 02:56:18 PM »

Use Motorcote.  Heard the stuff was amazing.


 lil couch jumping dude
Logged

I like pie.
EBCM 007
murphy
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Female
Posts: 2955



« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2015, 05:41:07 PM »

I've been through five radios now on mine, last two times I sent it to Iron Cross.. I had them install the Aux jack then too... I had to send it back of no fault of their own, my fairing mounts broke and shook the radio so much it started cutting out, I repaired them and they did the radio for me again... it works great!

I had a rear wheel bearings go on me at 40K miles, if you're at 90K I'd replace them.

The only other thing I caught that would have been a mess if I didn't was the cam chain tensioners.
Logged
Twolanerider
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: The Moon
Posts: 5175





My Ride 1:1999 FXR2 (red)

My Ride 2:2000 FLTRSEI (redder)

My Ride 3:2002 FLHRSEI (home made and even redder)

My Ride 4:bought an Indian (hat)
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2015, 07:54:00 PM »

JC, strictly in the FWIW department here are things as I schedule them.  Some of it is "just because" an abundance of caution because it's a much larger (literal and/or figurative) pain in the ass to have failures on a bike than on a car.

Swingarm rebuild at closest rear tire change to 50k.  The loss of feeling is so incremental you often don't notice it until it's been refreshed.

Every tire change closest to 50k miles also gets new wheel bearings.  Just because.

Cam bearings, cam tensioners and lifters at closest oil change to 50k.

Handlebar bushings (if still rubber) at 75k.

If nothing has yet been done re-ring (at a minimum and depending on wear and other desires while it's apart) and valve job at 100k



It's too bad you're not closer.  We'd knock the stuck out incrementally over time and make it less painful and more fun.  Short of the engine work and handlebar bushings the rest really is stuff you could likely and willingly knock out on your own with just a few borrowed tools I could mail.  Even though the handlebar bushings are a bit more a pain in the ass if you're in far enough to get the radio out yourself it's not that much more work to get the bushings done while the radio travels.
Logged
Dead_Reckoning
Service Advisor
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Floating On Casco Bay
Posts: 2305


03 SERK




My Ride 1:03 SERK
« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2015, 06:01:36 AM »


The only other thing I caught that would have been a mess if I didn't was the cam chain tensioners.

The older style or the newer Hydraulic type?


Here is something else I asked local HD Stealer about, the Auto Primary Chain Tensioner Shoe.
They have been on new HDs since 2009 now. There is no longer and Inspection plate like the older HDs used to adjust the Primary Chain Tension or ispect that shoe.
My 03 Manual Primary Chain Tensioner Shoe had worn out pretty definitively.

The simple answer I go was "No Issues". Yeah Right.

I looked in HD parts, if you need to replace that tensioner shoe, you have to buy the whole assembly. The shoe is NOT SOLD Seperately.

Logged

Government is best which governs least.
 "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money to spend"
J-Carr
AKA: Oscar Diggs
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Auburn, Pennsyltucky
Posts: 8917


That's what she said




My Ride 1:2008 FLHTCUSE3 Canyon Copper & Stardust Silver with SEAC, SSERT, and Fulsac 1.75" Slip Ons.  "Screamin' Nemo"

My Ride 2:1966 Road Queen Dori all original parts with some removed for better performance. "Screamin' Malinda"
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2015, 06:10:21 AM »

JC, strictly in the FWIW department here are things as I schedule them.  Some of it is "just because" an abundance of caution because it's a much larger (literal and/or figurative) pain in the ass to have failures on a bike than on a car.

Swingarm rebuild at closest rear tire change to 50k.  The loss of feeling is so incremental you often don't notice it until it's been refreshed.

Every tire change closest to 50k miles also gets new wheel bearings.  Just because.

Cam bearings, cam tensioners and lifters at closest oil change to 50k.

Handlebar bushings (if still rubber) at 75k.

If nothing has yet been done re-ring (at a minimum and depending on wear and other desires while it's apart) and valve job at 100k



It's too bad you're not closer.  We'd knock the stuck out incrementally over time and make it less painful and more fun.  Short of the engine work and handlebar bushings the rest really is stuff you could likely and willingly knock out on your own with just a few borrowed tools I could mail.  Even though the handlebar bushings are a bit more a pain in the ass if you're in far enough to get the radio out yourself it's not that much more work to get the bushings done while the radio travels.
Thanks all for the input.  Keep it coming if you think of anything else.

I appreciate the thought Don.  I do love Missouri too and your corner is the one I haven't seen.  But I can't spare enough time to camp (in a campground, not your yard.  Don't panic!) long enough to get it knocked out.  Fortunately there is a mechanic who used to work at the dealer I do business with who lives in my neighborhood.  I won't ask him to do it for free cause as a computer guy I know how annoying it is to constantly have people asking you to do your job every time pop over for a beer.  But I'm sure he'd do it while I assisted for a lot less then a dealer.  I insisted he use my hill for sleigh riding in winter and fishing in summer without being asked.  Just being neighborly but its paid me back in spades by offering to help me out when needed.

The handlebar was already on my list.  I've had the inner fairing and cap off before so I'm not afraid to get in far enough to replace them.  I did have wheel bearings done at around 50 and figure I'll do it again this winter even though its a bit early.   I really had no idea what I should expect with the swingarm and also the rubber bushing motor mounts.  I remember how those old rubber isolation dog bone mounts wore out on the 80s Chevy's so I was thinking maybe I should have you send me the alignment tool and replace the one on the front.

I think that ring job is probably not required as I don't use a drop of oil in between changes.  I'm amazed actually.  But that would let me get a good look at the piston condition and the make sure there's nothing going on in there.  So in for a penny in for a pound.  Since I'm considering some top end work with better springs and maybe roller rockers it's not that much more to pop the heads so I can check the valves and then it's nothing to pull the jugs.  See... I just needed a little prompt and now I'll have a good excuse to get some head work done while I'm in there.   Grin

Originally I planned to do all this winter of 2016/2017.  Still thinking that will be the plan as I will hit the 100k at just that point at my current usage.  No long trips planned next summer so it should be good.   But maybe I'll ask for all parts from Satan Claws this year and do the engine one year and the frame stuff the next.  The radio is a definite for this year.

One last item.. I'm definitely thinking the clutch should be done.  With a motor that isn't going to be hot rodded beyond maybe a few horses due to adding some high reliability parts should I stick with stock or will it be worth it to go aftermarket?  I hear lots about Barnett but are they really the best or is there a better quality or value?  And while I have the primary off to do the swing arm and the clutch I'd certainly do that tensioner too.  Good thought Dennis!  Even if its not dead yet, might as well start fresh if I'm going to keep the old fish.
Logged

Please stop the planet.  I would like to get off.
iski
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 16205


Hold your ears folks, it's show time.




My Ride 1:2002 FLHRCI Road King Classic - Vivid Black - Traded

My Ride 2:2007 FLHTCUSE2 Screamin' Eagle Ultra - Light Candy Cherry and Black Ice - Traded

My Ride 3:2010 FLHTCUSE5 Screamin' Eagle Ultra - Crimson Mist Black/Dark Slate - Traded

My Ride 4:2017 FLHTKSE CVO Limited - Black Garnet & Electric Red Pearl w/Carbon Dust
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2015, 07:14:40 AM »

All great advice. Good to have a mechanic neighbor.  Would also check out the motor mounts.  Can wait until broke to replace but might as well look.  Would consider a swap out on the oil pump. Maybe you got a new one at 50k, if not would be good insurance as long as you are in the engine anyway.

Also, do not forget to drink Motorcote.  It has rejuvenated my blinker fluid & now they blink automatically when they sense the bike is turning.

 Roll Eyes
Logged

I like pie.
EBCM 007
J-Carr
AKA: Oscar Diggs
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Auburn, Pennsyltucky
Posts: 8917


That's what she said




My Ride 1:2008 FLHTCUSE3 Canyon Copper & Stardust Silver with SEAC, SSERT, and Fulsac 1.75" Slip Ons.  "Screamin' Nemo"

My Ride 2:1966 Road Queen Dori all original parts with some removed for better performance. "Screamin' Malinda"
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2015, 07:21:21 AM »

Oil pump!  Check.  That wasn't on my list either.  Good catch.

I'm currently asking the community to fill my lake with Motorkote so I can anoint it in the waters.  Like Prince in Purple Rain with the hot chick.  I need to find a hot chick yet to test with.
Logged

Please stop the planet.  I would like to get off.
Twolanerider
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: The Moon
Posts: 5175





My Ride 1:1999 FXR2 (red)

My Ride 2:2000 FLTRSEI (redder)

My Ride 3:2002 FLHRSEI (home made and even redder)

My Ride 4:bought an Indian (hat)
« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2015, 06:08:50 PM »

Something to consider if doing a top end rebuild on a higher mileage engine and thinking, "ahhh, not using oil so the rings are ok."  The rings, cylinders, valves, guides, etc have all been in there doing there thing happily together.  It's not unheard of that you do a top end only rebuild, maybe repair a little loss you'd slowly gained there over time, pick up just a little cylinder pressure or compression (especially if you choose to have some work done at the same time) and now you're pushing past the old rings when you weren't before.  Maybe, maybe not.  But that's what at around 100k on an otherwise unmolested bike engine I'd do both.
Logged
Twolanerider
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: The Moon
Posts: 5175





My Ride 1:1999 FXR2 (red)

My Ride 2:2000 FLTRSEI (redder)

My Ride 3:2002 FLHRSEI (home made and even redder)

My Ride 4:bought an Indian (hat)
« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2015, 06:11:12 PM »

Oil pump!  Check.  That wasn't on my list either.  Good catch.

I'm currently asking the community to fill my lake with Motorkote so I can anoint it in the waters.  Like Prince in Purple Rain with the hot chick.  I need to find a hot chick yet to test with.

The rubber motor mounts I don't do on a schedule.  Replace if/when it fails.  You'll know when it does.  Oil pump definitely.  Just didn't think of it when doing the prior lists.  For me it's an "inspect very closely" item at the 50k cam service and a replace "just because" at the 100k.
Logged
Twolanerider
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: The Moon
Posts: 5175





My Ride 1:1999 FXR2 (red)

My Ride 2:2000 FLTRSEI (redder)

My Ride 3:2002 FLHRSEI (home made and even redder)

My Ride 4:bought an Indian (hat)
« Reply #12 on: August 13, 2015, 06:20:15 PM »

Oh yeah, and at 75k I'll replace the clutch disks and the chain tensioner if they've survived that long.
Logged
J-Carr
AKA: Oscar Diggs
Executive QC Service Advisor
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Auburn, Pennsyltucky
Posts: 8917


That's what she said




My Ride 1:2008 FLHTCUSE3 Canyon Copper & Stardust Silver with SEAC, SSERT, and Fulsac 1.75" Slip Ons.  "Screamin' Nemo"

My Ride 2:1966 Road Queen Dori all original parts with some removed for better performance. "Screamin' Malinda"
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2015, 05:43:39 AM »

Something to consider if doing a top end rebuild on a higher mileage engine and thinking, "ahhh, not using oil so the rings are ok."  The rings, cylinders, valves, guides, etc have all been in there doing there thing happily together.  It's not unheard of that you do a top end only rebuild, maybe repair a little loss you'd slowly gained there over time, pick up just a little cylinder pressure or compression (especially if you choose to have some work done at the same time) and now you're pushing past the old rings when you weren't before.  Maybe, maybe not.  But that's what at around 100k on an otherwise unmolested bike engine I'd do both.
Absolutely!  Things wear together as well.  If you replace one thing, the other things that touch it aren't happy and wear more faster.   So I figure I really need new pistons too.   Grin

Ok, just kidding.  Obviously I'll be looking them over real careful but I'm not going to throw money at the engine to make it go fast.  IT's funny because even though I have no desire to ride particularly fast or accelerate like a drag strip out of every light or swerve my way like a slalom skier around through and over traffic (HAS anyone heard from Howie lately?) I still love the idea of a really well built all high end component motor just to have it.  Just not enough to spend the kind of money on it that some have.
Logged

Please stop the planet.  I would like to get off.
Flyndyna
Drunken Master
Master Mechanic
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Location: Bristow, Virginia
Posts: 830


I was going to procrastinate, but I put it off




My Ride 1:2007 FXDSE Silver/Black
« Reply #14 on: August 14, 2015, 10:50:05 AM »

All great advice, especially since it sounds like you will definitely keep her. I will never get rid of mine, will continue to repair/rebuild throughout the years. I will be adding to the stable next year or two (or three). Road Glide calling my name!
Logged
Pages: [1] 2  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.092 seconds with 19 queries.